How to Care for Wood Jewelry

Wood jewelry is lightweight, warm against the skin, and every piece has its own grain pattern. I hand-sand and seal each PRWMade piece with a linseed oil and beeswax finish so it arrives smooth, protected, and ready to wear. With a few simple habits, that finish holds up for years.

This guide covers everyday care, cleaning, the best finish and oils to use, scratch repair, storage, and the questions I get asked most. If you're new to wood jewelry and want to understand the differences between wood species, check out the wood types page first.

Everyday Care (Quick Start)

Last on, first off. Put your wood jewelry on after lotions, perfume, sunscreen, and hairspray have fully absorbed. Take it off before showering, swimming, or doing dishes. This one habit prevents 90% of finish issues.

Wipe moisture immediately. If your piece gets splashed or you get caught in the rain, pat it dry with a soft cloth right away. Wood is sealed, not waterproof. Repeated soaking will dull the finish over time.

Gentle handling. Wood is surprisingly durable for daily wear, but avoid tossing it loose in a bag or pocket where it can bounce against keys, coins, or other jewelry.

How to Clean Wood Jewelry

The easiest way to clean wooden jewelry is with a soft dry cloth. Dust and body oils wipe right off.

For a deeper clean, dampen a cloth with plain water, wipe the surface, and dry immediately with a second cloth. That's it. Skip soap, rubbing alcohol, jewelry dips, and ultrasonic cleaners. They strip the protective finish and can raise the wood grain. This applies to all wood pieces, from earrings to necklaces to home decor.

Best Finish for Wood Jewelry

Every PRWMade piece ships with a hand-rubbed coat of linseed oil sealed with beeswax. This combination does three things well: it brings out the natural color and grain, it protects against light moisture, and it gives a smooth, low-sheen feel that isn't plasticky or glossy.

If you're wondering how to finish wood jewelry yourself or want to refinish a piece, food-safe mineral oil works as a base coat and beeswax as a topcoat. You can also use a premixed mineral oil and beeswax blend (sometimes labeled "cutting board conditioner"). These are easy to find, safe for skin contact, and simple to reapply.

Avoid polyurethane, lacquer, or shellac on jewelry. They look fine on furniture but feel rigid on something you wear against your skin, and they crack rather than flex with the wood over time.

How to Refresh the Finish

After a few months of regular wear, the wood might look a little dry or matte. That's normal. Here's how to bring it back in about two minutes:

1. Wipe the piece clean with a dry cloth.
2. Rub a small drop of food-safe mineral oil (or a beeswax and mineral oil blend) onto the surface with your fingertip or a soft cloth.
3. Let it sit for one minute.
4. Buff off the excess with a clean, dry cloth.

That's the full process. You'll see the grain pop back and the color deepen right away.

Can I Use Olive Oil, Baby Oil, or Coconut Oil?

This is one of the most common questions I get, so here's the short answer:

Baby oil (mineral oil): Yes, this works fine. Baby oil is just mineral oil with fragrance. If you have unscented mineral oil, use that instead, but scented baby oil won't hurt the wood.

Olive oil: No. Olive oil is a food-grade oil that goes rancid over time. It will start to smell and can leave a sticky residue on the wood surface. Same goes for vegetable oil, canola oil, and other cooking oils.

Coconut oil: It works in a pinch, but it can leave a slightly greasy feel and may go rancid in warm conditions. Mineral oil is a better long-term choice.

Linseed oil (flaxseed oil): Yes. This is what I use in my shop. It penetrates the wood, hardens slightly over time, and brings out beautiful grain detail. Use boiled linseed oil (BLO) for faster drying, not raw.

The safest all-around recommendation: food-safe mineral oil + beeswax. Want to see how the finish looks on different species? Browse the full jewelry collection to see the grain detail up close.

Does Wood Jewelry Chip or Scratch Easily?

Wood is more durable than most people expect. It doesn't shatter like glass or ceramic, and it flexes slightly with impact rather than cracking.

That said, it can pick up surface scratches from hard contact, the same way a hardwood floor does. Light scratches usually disappear with a re-oiling. The oil fills and darkens the scratch so it blends back into the grain.

For deeper scratches, a light pass with 400-grit sandpaper followed by re-oiling does the trick. If a piece takes real damage, reach out to me and I'll help you figure out the best fix or replacement.

Caring for Wooden Religious Items and Keepsakes

The same care principles apply to wooden crosses, crucifixes, rosary beads, and other keepsakes. Clean with a dry cloth, refresh with mineral oil when the wood looks dry, and store in a soft pouch away from direct sunlight and humidity.

For pieces with metal hardware (chains, clasps, inlays), keep the oil on the wood portions only. Use a jewelry polishing cloth on the metal parts separately.

Storage and Travel

Store wood jewelry in a dry spot, ideally in a soft pouch or lined box. Keep pieces separated so metal findings don't scratch the wood surfaces. If you live somewhere humid, toss a small silica gel packet in the box.

For travel, a simple drawstring pouch works. Avoid leaving wood jewelry in a hot car or direct sunlight for extended periods. Heat and UV can dry out the finish faster than normal wear.

Metal Findings (Hooks, Posts, and Clasps)

Most PRWMade earrings use sterling silver or gold-plated hooks and posts. Sterling is nickel-free and hypoallergenic, which is the best choice if you have sensitive skin.

Sterling can tarnish over time. A quick pass with a jewelry polishing cloth brightens it up. Avoid liquid silver dips since the chemicals can damage the wood if they make contact.

Shop Wood Jewelry

Every PRWMade piece is handcrafted from sustainably sourced wood and finished with care in Hamilton, Ohio. A tree is planted with every order.

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